Biology, behaviour and husbandry

John Chitty; Bob Doneley; Anna Meredith; Anne McBride

doi:10.22233/9781910443903.1

British Small Animal Veterinary Association , e5 (2026); https://doi.org/10.22233/9781910443903.1

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Biology, behaviour and husbandry

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Authors: John Chitty, Bob Doneley, Anna Meredith and Anne McBride
From: BSAVA Manual of Guinea Pigs
Item: Chapter 1, pp 1 - 18
DOI: 10.22233/9781910443903.1
Copyright: © 2026 British Small Animal Veterinary Association
Publication Date: January 2026

This chapter provides a comprehensive overview of the biology, behaviour, and husbandry of domestic guinea pigs (Cavia porcellus), with emphasis on their natural history, housing, social structure and environmental needs. Key topics include physiological parameters, housing requirements, breeding, social development, and routine care such as grooming and health checks. The text highlights differences between wild and domesticated guinea pigs, the importance of compatible companionship, and the recognition of distress and welfare issues. The chapter contains a guinea pig behaviour questionnaire for use with clients.

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Figures

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1.1

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1.1 A Brazilian cavy in a zoological collection. (© John Chitty)

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1.4

Example outdoor enclosure with sufficient space for 8–12 guinea pigs. Part of the roofing (over the hutches) is solid to provide shade and protection from rain. This is secured at the rear to prevent flapping and wind damage. Open areas are also provided to allow access to sunlight. The hutches have waterproof rooves and are positioned so that wind and rain do not directly blow in. Doors are secured open to prevent slamming and to allow constant access. The hutches are raised off the ground to reduce the risk of damp. Ramps and steps are provided to facilitate access. The space under the hutches also allows the guinea pigs to hide. Some hay is left outside the hutch so the guinea pigs can drag it under the hutch. Alternatively, tubing (e.g. drainpipes) and/or large mounds of hay to hide in could be provided. This group dragged any mound of hay under the hutches and did not take to drainpipes – it is important to observe animals’ preferences and take account of them. As guinea pigs do not climb, three-foot tall side wiring (arrowhead) is sufficient to contain them. While not shown in this image, it is recommended that the entire roof should be wired to avoid any risk of predation (e.g. by birds, foxes, cats or dogs). Alternatively, electrified fencing may be placed external to the pen. Metal construction is robust and reduces the risk of chew damage by the guinea pigs. The pen is secured to the ground and underwired for 30–50 cm both internally and externally. This is to prevent guinea pigs pushing under and escaping, and to prevent predators digging in. Heavy wooden beams assist in securing the underwiring and also provide additional privacy. An open area is provided to allow limited grazing as well as space for exercise and sunbathing. Enrichment and hides may be placed in this area. However, provided there are sufficient and easily accessed hiding places elsewhere, guinea pigs will spend a lot of time in the open. Scatter feeding also assists in providing enrichment, and space should be allowed for feeding enrichment devices. There should also be plenty of water bowls, both in the open areas and the hutches. Bowls of pelleted food should be provided under cover to prevent rain spoilage. Food and water bowls should be solid and difficult to tip over. Ideally, they should also be frost resistant and some should be positioned out of direct sunlight and in areas more protected from freezing. (© John Chitty) © 2026 British Small Animal Veterinary Association

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1.4 Example outdoor enclosure with sufficient space for 8–12 guinea pigs. Part of the roofing (over the hutches) is solid to provide shade and protection from rain. This is secured at the rear to prevent flapping and wind damage. Open areas are also provided to allow access to sunlight. The hutches have waterproof rooves and are positioned so that wind and rain do not directly blow in. Doors are secured open to prevent slamming and to allow constant access. The hutches are raised off the ground to reduce the risk of damp. Ramps and steps are provided to facilitate access. The space under the hutches also allows the guinea pigs to hide. Some hay is left outside the hutch so the guinea pigs can drag it under the hutch. Alternatively, tubing (e.g. drainpipes) and/or large mounds of hay to hide in could be provided. This group dragged any mound of hay under the hutches and did not take to drainpipes – it is important to observe animals’ preferences and take account of them. As guinea pigs do not climb, three-foot tall side wiring (arrowhead) is sufficient to contain them. While not shown in this image, it is recommended that the entire roof should be wired to avoid any risk of predation (e.g. by birds, foxes, cats or dogs). Alternatively, electrified fencing may be placed external to the pen. Metal construction is robust and reduces the risk of chew damage by the guinea pigs. The pen is secured to the ground and underwired for 30–50 cm both internally and externally. This is to prevent guinea pigs pushing under and escaping, and to prevent predators digging in. Heavy wooden beams assist in securing the underwiring and also provide additional privacy. An open area is provided to allow limited grazing as well as space for exercise and sunbathing. Enrichment and hides may be placed in this area. However, provided there are sufficient and easily accessed hiding places elsewhere, guinea pigs will spend a lot of time in the open. Scatter feeding also assists in providing enrichment, and space should be allowed for feeding enrichment devices. There should also be plenty of water bowls, both in the open areas and the hutches. Bowls of pelleted food should be provided under cover to prevent rain spoilage. Food and water bowls should be solid and difficult to tip over. Ideally, they should also be frost resistant and some should be positioned out of direct sunlight and in areas more protected from freezing. (© John Chitty)

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1.5

Trees in the enclosure should be non-toxic and protected from gnawing. This protection needs to be robust. Here, in spite of plastic protectors around the base, this cherry tree has still been ring-barked by guinea pigs. (© John Chitty) © 2026 British Small Animal Veterinary Association

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1.5 Trees in the enclosure should be non-toxic and protected from gnawing. This protection needs to be robust. Here, in spite of plastic protectors around the base, this cherry tree has still been ring-barked by guinea pigs. (© John Chitty)

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1.6

Climbing plants trained over the top of part of the enclosure will provide additional shade in the summer and further security for the guinea pigs by screening them from overhead predators. (© John Chitty) © 2026 British Small Animal Veterinary Association

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1.6 Climbing plants trained over the top of part of the enclosure will provide additional shade in the summer and further security for the guinea pigs by screening them from overhead predators. (© John Chitty)

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1.7

Outdoor scatter feeding provides enrichment. Problems associated with outdoor keeping include overgrazing and the ground becoming muddy due to over-trampling (poaching). Rotation of feeding sites will help to reduce this, and scattering hay may reduce the effects of poaching in the short term. (© John Chitty) © 2026 British Small Animal Veterinary Association

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1.7 Outdoor scatter feeding provides enrichment. Problems associated with outdoor keeping include overgrazing and the ground becoming muddy due to over-trampling (poaching). Rotation of feeding sites will help to reduce this, and scattering hay may reduce the effects of poaching in the short term. (© John Chitty)

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1.9

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